When Spaccanapoli pizzeria closed its doors after nearly 16 years on Dean Street in Soho, lovers of Italian food shed a collective tear.
London’s Italian restaurants were put to shame by Spacca. It was with operatic despair that regulars bade it farewell last year, another victim of the Crossrail project.
Yet it wasn’t long before dedicated fans turned to Santore, Spaccanapoli’s sister restaurant on Islington’s trendy Exmouth Market, and they haven’t been let down. The restaurant appears to have absorbed most of the old Spaccanapoli staff - who have lost none of their charm - and the pizzas are still the best in London.
Booking is essential now more than ever. The extra influx of clientele has left Saturday nights almost uncomfortably busy, and the place was even heaving at half seven on a Tuesday. Despite this the service remains fast - though you’re going to have to use some European confidence to get noticed.
To start, the Antipasti Misto (£6.95) is criminally good value and big enough to share. Swathes of starters ranging from artichoke hearts to marinated peppers - depending on the chef’s choice of the day - are served with crusty bread and dressing good enough to drink. The entire thing was despatched in minutes, as was the majority of a bottle of the house white, a (just) passable Frascati at £13.95. Unless on a budget I’d advise investing in the Gavi (£17.95).
Next, after a comfortable pause, came the pizza. The restaurant’s speciality is its famous pizza al metro: pizzas up to one metre across served on stilts along the table, for two or more to share.
At Santore, you eat what you’re given. There is no messing around asking if little Jocasta can have mushrooms instead of anchovies. A Siciliana is a Siciliana and, no, you can’t have ketchup with it. One dedicated professional makes every one of the pizzas ordered (quite an incredible feat to watch if you’re lucky enough to be seated in view of him), and the given options cannot be modified. This is one of the reasons that the pizza is so consistently excellent.
A couple of drinks and some narcotic strength espresso rounded off another superb experience that confirmed that the spirit of Spacca lives on.
Santore is everything that Italian food is meant to be. Unpretentious, delicious and satisfying. All this for a price that competes with Pizza Express.
Santore, 59-61 Exmouth Market, EC1R 5RJ
Tel: 020 7812 1488
Price for two including starters, mains, wine, digestifs, coffee and service: £65
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